Shoe and method of making same



Jan. 3, 192s. M 1,655,161

J. L. PREC ET AL SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Filed A1191. l5, 1924Fig. 7.

Patented Jan. 3, 1928.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JOHN L. PREC, OF BROOKLYN, .AND ISABELLE HENNE, F LVYNBROOXV, NEW YOBX,AB- SIGNORS TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PTERSON, NEW JER-SEY, .A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SHOE .um METHOD or MAKING saam.

Application -led August 15, 1924. Serial No. 732,230.

This invention relates to shoes and to methods for use in theirmanufacture. More particularly it has to do with the preparation of theheel-seats of boots and shoes for the attachment of heels such, forexample, as

wood heels.

Objects of the invention are to provide a tight ljoint between theperiphery of the heel-'seat of a heel such as a wood heel and the upperand to make a more artistic, accurate, permanent and satisfactory jointthan heretofore.

In certain aspects the invention consists in providing the heel-seat ofa shoe with a compacted or compressed inner area surrounded by arelatively soft, uncompressed, horseshoe-shaped area correspondingsubstantially to the shape and size of the outer rim or periphery oftheseat of a heel such as a wood heel and` in the attachment of a heel,forcing said rim or periphery against the soft area to .provide a tightjoint between the heel and upper.

Preferably the entire heel-seat portion of the sole is compressed into aconvex shape corresponding substantially to the cupped formation of theportion of the seat of the heel which covers it, the said compressedportion 'terminating in a groove or channel surrounding the periphery ofthe horseshoe.- shaped heel-seat portion of the sole. The formation ofthis channel by Vcompression tends to force outwardly the materials ofthe upper and counter 4beyond it and to form them into a rounded.non-compressed and therefore relatively soft bead located at the marginof the heel-seat and adapted to receive and permit to be embeddedtherein the rim of the applied heel, thus insuring 40 a tight,unobtrusive joint between the heel and the heel-seat of the shoe.

` In still another aspect the invention comprises a shoe constructioncharacterized by a relatively hard, compressed heel-seat portion shapedto receive the concave heel-seat portion of a wood or other similar heelwith a non-compressed, and therefore relatively soft, bead formed in theupper and counter materials and surrounding the compressed area, thisbead receivin the marginal portion of the heel and yie ding as may benecessary to permit the edge of the heel to embed itself in the bead andthus to make a tight joint.

These and other aspects of the invention will appear more fully from the`following description when read in connection with the accompanyingdrawings and will be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings.:

Fig. l is a perspective view of a shoe the heel-seat of which has beenprepared in accordance with the present invention i'or the attachment ofa heel;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view showing the acting face of the heel-seatdie;

Fig. 3 is a transverse section of the heel portion of a shoe, the'heel-seat portion of which is being acted upon by the die shown in Fig.2; v

Fig. 4 is a view, similar to Fig. 2, of an other form oi die adapted foruse in the practice of the present method;

Fig. 5 is a view, lsimilar to Fig. 3, during the operation of the dieshown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of a shoe with the heel applied. theretounder pressure; and

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary view, similar to Fig. 6, showing the heelpermanently at-v tached to the heel-seat.

This application is a continuation in art of our application Serial No.507,614, ed October 14, 1921.

In order clearly to illustrate the invention, it has been shown in itsrelation to the manufacture of turn shoes having wood heels. It is to beunderstood, however, that, in various aspects, the invention is not solimited in its utility.V

As shown in Fig. 1, the heel-seat portion of the shoe has been preparedby skiving the heel end of the sole. to provide a breast covering flap aand a breast positioning Hap b. The next operation upon the heelseat isthat of heel-seat fitting which consists in trimming away the"peripheral portion of the heel-end c of the sole, this portion being,in a sewed seat shoe, whether a turn, McKay, or other shoe, the portionoutside of the stitches. The heel-seat iitting operation is followed b aheel-seat forming operation in which t e heel-seat is comressed by a diesuch as that shown in Fig. 2. he operating :tace 4 of the die is aproximately cylindrically concaved at its orward portion, and at itsrear portion is approxi mately spherically concaved. This surfaceextends uninterruptedly to the periphery of the die where it meets asubstantially vertical eripheral wall 6 of the die. Adjacent to tlieperiphery of the surface 4, however,

' in a sewed heel-seat turn shoe, as illustrated,

is along the line of stitching f attaching the upper and counter to thesole.

The result of the operation of the die upon the heel-seat.'as shown inFigs. 1 and 3, is to compress the rear end c of the sole and give it asmooth, rounded convex shape which will corres 0nd substantially7 to theinterior portion o the cupped formation of the heel and to form in theinturned portion of 'the upper and counter adjacent to the sole a grooveor channel h corresponding in shape to the rim of the heel but smaller.When the rim 8 of the die is forced into the. upper and counter to formthe channel h, the materials of the upper and counter underlying the rim8 are compressed relatively to the portions outside of said rim and theinward bend of the upper and counter over the heel-seat is accentuatedso that the counter and upper materials are formed into a rounded bead iextending around the periphery of the heel-seat and forming anon-compressed and relatively soft area to receive the rim of a heelsuch as a wood heel.

In order to present the most satisfactory appearance, a wood heel shouldbe so attached that its outer surface forms substantially a continuationof the surface of the counter portion of the upper, the rand creasebeing practically obliterated. This result is easily obtained by ourmethod, for, as shown in Fig. 6, when a wood heel k of properproportions is pressed upon aheelseat formed as described. the rim Z ofthe heel will be located upon the bead z' and will be caused, bypressure applied before or during the heel attaching operation, tobecome embedded in the bead to form a tight joint between the heel andupper and to cause the Surface of the counter portion of the upper toblend with the surface of the heel in smoothly curved lines withoutsubstantial break at the juncture of the heel and upper. A smooth streamline effect is thus obtained.

Glue is usually applied between the. seat of the heel and theheel-seatot the shoe so that when these parts are pressed together,

as shown in Fig. 6, firm adhesion will result` The die shown in Fig. 4has the interior portion 20 of its operating face substantially like thesurface 4 of the die shown in Fig. 2. This face terminates in a narrowhorseslice-shaped rim 22 outside of which is a transversal)v concavedforming surface 2l which also is horseshoe-shaped in outline. This dieis so proportioned relatively to the heel-seat that the rim 22 willengage the upper and counter adjacent to the peripheryv of the sole. Theheel end of the sole is conined within the concaved surface' of the dit`when compressed and a groove or channel is formed by compression in thematerial of the heel-seat adjacent to the sole, while the peripheralportion 24 of the die outside of the rim 22 will act upon the upper andcounter materials without substantial compression because they areunconfined against outward movement relatively tc the die. The surfaceQ4 of the die, however, acts to accentuate the peripheral bead formed on.the upper and counter by the action of the riln 22 and causes the topof the bead to be located in a plane determined by the outer edge of thesurface 24 of the die. The head formed on the upper and counter is thusgiven a definite shape and height so that when a heel is applied to thebead in the manner shown in Fig. 6 and pressed therein and secured, asshown in Figs. 6 and 7, a uniform joint will be Secured between the heeland upper.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent ot' the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of maliing shoes which consists incompressing the interior portion of the heel-seat of a shoe whileleaving the margin thereof relatively soft and uncompressed. applying aheel with the peripheral rim of its seat in engagement with the softperiphery, pressing the heel in place, and securing it permanently tothe shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists incompressing the area of the upper and counter inside the area to beoccupied by the peripheral margin of the heel-seat of a heel and therebforming al relatively raised, uncompresse portion about the periphery ofthe heel-seat of a shoe, applying a heel with the peripheral margin ofits seat in contact with the said relativelyv raised portion, andpressing the heel in placeto form a Atight joint between the heel andupper and securing the heel to the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of makin;r shoes which consists in forminthe interior portion of the heel-seat of a s oe .into a smooth, convexarea and the peripheral margin of the heel-seat into a rounded beadsubstantially of. horseshoe shape, lacing the peripheral rim of a heelupon saidj bead, ap-

plying pressure to sink said rim into the ead and securing the heel inplace.

4. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in forminin the upper and counter materials of t e heelseat a groove or channelof horseshoe shape surrounded by a convex bead, locating the heel withthe peripheral rim of its seat upon said bead. applying pressure to theheel to Hatten the bead, and securing the heel to the shoe.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists incompressing a ortion of t-he heel-seat of a shoe and leavlng a softmarvin about said compressed portion, embedding the thin margin of theheel-seat portion of a heel u on the soft v margin of the heel-seat, andastening the heel in place.

6. That improvement in methods o making shoes which consists incompressing a horseshoe-shaped area. upon the heel-seat, forming ahorseshoe-shaped soft bead upstanding relatively to said area, andembedding thethin marginal edge of a wood heel in the bead with. the.peripheral surface of the counter and heel substantially7 in alinement.i

7. That improvement in methods of Inaking shoes which consists indepressing a horseshoe-shaped area ofthe surface of the heel-seat whilethe marginal portion of the heel-seat comprising the upper and counteris unconfined and remains relatively soft, locating the rim of the seatportion of a wood heel upon said soft peripheral area,

ressing the heel in place, and securing the heel to the shoe. i

8. That improvement in methods of 'making shoes which consists informing the peripheral portion of the heel-seat into an of the heel upon'said upstanding, rounded bead substantially of horseshoe shape, placinthe peripheral rim ead, applying pressurefto sink said rim onto saidbead, and securing the heel in place.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in formingfrom the upper and counter materials of the heelseat a bead, locating aheel with the peripheral rim of its seat face upon said bead, forcingthe heel down upon the bead to form a tight joint between the heel andthe upper, and securing the heel to the shoe.

10. A shoe having its heel-seat portion surrounded by a bead and a heelsecured to the shoe with its peripheral rim embedded in said bead.

11. A shoe having a heel-seat convexly shaped to correspondsubstantially to the cup of the heel, said seat being surrounded by abead and a heel secured to' the shoe with its eripheral rim inengagement with said bead).

12. A shoe having the inturned portion of its upper and counter at theheel-seat formed as a horseshoe-shaped bead extendingr along theperiphery of the heel-seat and a heel secured thereto with itsperipheral rim embedded in saidbead.

13. A shoe having the inturned portion of its upper and counter at theheel-seat formed as a bead extendin about the periphery of the heel-seatand a heel secured thereto with its peripheral rim embedded in said beadand having its sides substantially flush with the sides of the counterportion of the shoe.

14. A shoe having the overlaid margins of its upper and counter at itsheel-seat shaped to form a channel surrounded by a compressible bead anda heel secured to the shoe with its peripheral rim embedded in the bead.l

In testimony whereof I, the said JOHN L. Puno, have signed my name tothis specification.

JOHN L. PREO. In testimony whereof I, the said IsABnLu: HENNE, havesigned my name to this specication.

ISABELLE BLENNE.

